Normally, the isn’t a dedicated FW for right&left. There is just one FW for both and you flash that to both halves. The KB determines which side is right and which is left by either the half the USB cable is connected to ( e.g. FW is configured with “USB half is right side”) or by flashing a small marker to the EEPROM of the controllers to mark them as right/left (this marker us not part of the FW, look for EE_HANDS in the QMK docs).
Flashing with the .uf2 file provided by the webpage, you should get the default behavior of the keyboard and it should generally be working.
If you want to change any behavior (like key layout or anything) you would need to flash the halves with your own config of QMK anyways. That is kind of the neat thing about custom KBs - you can configure your device to your liking.
I’m using ATmega micros, on my Lily58. If I remember correctly, the default QMK behaviour was to use the USB to select which half was the master and what side it was on. That would work on RP2040 boards just as well so that may be what the provided firmware does.
I would suggest you just flash them both then see what they do. If they are swapped, try connecting the USB to the other half. If that works then you don’t have a problem. There’s no risk of damaging them and the RP2040 is pretty easy to reflash.
I wasn’t satisfied with that method and set QMK to store the sides in eeprom so I could use the same firmware but connect to either one. I’m not sure if the 2040 has a separate non-volatile memory so you’ll likely need a different method. I think a GPIO can be grounded to set the side but the Lily58 doesn’t do this. You could add a bodge wire if you want this but you have to customise QMK to use that method.
You can put clear finger nail polish over the pins you are afraid of touching. The higher quality polish, the longer it will last. If you ever need to rework it then the soldering iron will burn through the polish and create extra smoke. Conformal coating is what the industry uses to protect boards from chemicals and moisture, but is more expensive and harder to rework.
Flux comes in many varieties. Rosin or No-clean are most likely what you have. Rosin should be cleaned off with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush if you want the board to last decades. No-clean can stay on the board, but can also be cleaned off in the same manner. If you have water-soluble flux then you must clean the board thoroughly with water to prevent future damage from the aggressive flux.
So. This is the solder I have www.jaycar.com.au/…/NS3092 I tried to check the facts sheet on the downloads section but couldn’t find any info on the flux used there. I’ll see about buying the clear nail polish.
The description says “resin core” which is a misspelling of rosin core. It is just pine tree sap that can be cleaned off if you want with alcohol with a toothbrush and then wiped with something absorbent so it doesn’t evaporate on the board and leave a haze.
Tin, copper, and rosin sound pretty safe to me but I’m no doctor. Just try and avoid any fumes from the resin while soldering.
Hahah. Layers and combos. You can see a few people’s layouts on 30 key boards at the keymap db website. What’s even better is I actually don’t even use all the keys lol. keymapdb.com
The Corne v4 is starting to appear for sale now. This eBay vendor has reasonable prices and options to get the board “bare bones” or with switches or encoders: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=186471469253&rt=nc&_…
80wpm usually but I’ve hit 100 when I am being a try-hard hahaha. Swapped to aptmak a few days ago so I am back to 40-50 wpm now while I get used to the new layout.
Modded Colemak dh with v z j on combo for the past months. But I am building a zilpzalp soon and took the leap to aptmak this weekend. Only 3 days in though.
You program/configure your keymap into the keyboard’s firmware so it is independent of your operating system. If you use Mac, you put your Mac specific keys into the map where you want them. It’s totally up to you - if you want every key to be “a” you can do that :)
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