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humanplayer2

@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml

I enjoy modding stuff in Copenhagen, Denmark.

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Does anyone run their desktop environment containerized?

I’m used to using Linux from the terminal. I have a new machine which I plan to use mostly headless but would occasionally like to run a desktop environment and play games with GPU acceleration. I know I don’t have to launch the desktop environment on startup, but I was wondering if it’s possible to have that entire...

humanplayer2,
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Maybe Vanilla OS will be of interest?

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Nope, just a new logo on an existing key.

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Super nice project!

The custom keycaps, that’s a dream. I’d love if there was a good method for that. I laser cut my board myself, too (but at a mkser space), and would love to make custom keycaps for it.

To speed up the process and perhaps get less errors, could you possibly do all of them at once?

Since you cut the plate, you have the drawing, so you could place the legends appropriately on that, then place keycaps on all switches and press play?

Maybe you could start with small dots on four corner keycaps in one go to calibrate/not risk bad prints on a full keycap set.

Most tactile medium-to-light MX-compatible switch (including clicky switches)?

I’m looking for a lighter companion to the Clickiez 40g (which actually has ~75-80gf peak force). The Clickiez and the Box Navies are the only MX-compatible switches whose tactility I’ve really found sufficient before, but I’m willing to sacrifice a little tactility to get a lighter switch for some special keys. What’s...

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

What have you tried that you didn’t like? And did you consider swapping springs in some that you do like? Then you can those as light as you’d like.

Did you try Gazzew U4T?

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

I like the U4Ts (there is a also a silent version called “U4Ts”, just FYI.)

I haven’t tried a ton of switches either, but the U4Ts are the tactile switches I have tried that I like the most for their noticeable tactility. And I’ve been using 68g, which maybe even hides some tactility. So I’ve bought some 55g two-staged springs I want to swap to.

If you don’t know it, then there is an immense collection of switch reviews which also covers the U4Ts: github.com/ThereminGoat/…/U4T (62g).pdf

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

That’s a great question - sorry for the slow reply! I bought some from a mechanical keyboard online shop that had a sale, but maybe you can find some as cheap elsewhere.

I bought SPRiT MX Multistage 55 M1 and SPRiT MX Extreme 45s Slow springs. I’m thinking I’ll try the 55g ones first. They were just really cheap, so I bought the 45g, too.

humanplayer2, (edited )
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

A very interesting read, and really cool looking! I’d really like to try the keycaps in v. 0.3!

I’m curious about this point:

With square keys, each key has eight neighbours, but the diagonal neighbours are about 1.4 times further away than orthogonal ones and therefore harder to reach for the same finger.

Say I arrange square keys in columns with a 0.5u offset. Then each key also only has six neighbors. I wonder how that compares distance-wide to hexagonal keys.

Edit: the Klacker BS does this, but offsets the rows instead.

humanplayer2,
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Thanks for doing the math! I’m not quite sure I follow: why is the lengths different for row and columns on the Mantis? Are you calculating to the press point of your sculpted keycaps?

humanplayer2,
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It looks neat! What are thode keycaps? Self-printed?

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Perhaps the TEX Shura?

It has a number of options for keys on various positions. The bottom row also works for some “unsopprted” combinations of keys, e.g. With 2u spacebars and different mods on the outside.

Fair warning though: using the trackpoint requires either using the standard keycaps, or cutting into your own. Similarly the arrow key cluster uses 0.8u keys, meaning you need to shave off parts of regular keycaps. I’ve down this to use Cherry profile caps.

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

I think you can get those key placements on the Shura? If you look at this layout options image and think to apply the green and blue swaps, isn’t that HHKB on all but the bottom row?

Looking for a truly DIY keyboard kit

I would like to build my first keyboard, but I feel like the DIY-kits available don’t let you get your hands on the keyboard enough. For instance, I looked into the M1W barebone as it checks all the criteria I have (I would prefer a 75% board, with a knob, and wireless option), except the only thing left to do is to plug-in...

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

You’ll do that plenty in a lot of the hotswap boards, too. You typically have to place the PCB yourself, plus you’ll have fun with foam and tape under it, swichtes and keycaps on top. And then you can start modding your switches, lubing and filming them. There’s lots to do, but there aren’t that many different, seperate components once the PCB is assembled for you.

I’d say next level after that requires soldering – and it seemed like in another comment you weren’t too keen on that?

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Super nice!

How much did you pay for the trackpoint and shipping? It’s great to hear that you can just email Sprintek!

Nice that the RP2040 doesn’t require a reset circuit! I just finished a handwired with a ATMega32U4 ProMicro where I needed to remove a resistor to clear the D5 pin for USART. That was quite a painful process overall. This seems significantly easier!

humanplayer2, (edited )
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Ok, I gæs it’d be about the same shipping to Denmark. Compared to sourcing from ThinkPad keyboards, I find it very appealing to not have to risk popping the pin pads of the pcb when desoldering the keyboard ribbon cable. I’ve caused a few casualties.

Edit: Ah, I see you had to undsolder a ribbon cable from the controller board, too.

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Super nice! I really like the layout design and the overall metal and wood look!

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

You nailed it, I think!

I feel you on the right Shift! It’s optional on the TEX Shura which I’ve used recently, and I of course went for the u1, too. I’m surprised how often I reach that far with my pinky! But it looks nice :D

PS. for some nice out-of-time keyboard and computer shots, I can recommend the show Loki. They have so sparked my desire to find a 4:3 display and build an softly curved, keyboard and display-integrated pc case with an orange epoxy resin lacquer finish. How one can dream.

humanplayer2,
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For me, the left and right also act as layers, if held and something else is pressed. Then I can access a e.g. navigation from the homerow.

Used keyboard I bought has keys that don't respond when pressed. Any hope in saving?

Its a Razer Blackwidow elite I got for cheap, the listing just said “sold as is” and had some pictures. Didn’t mention anything about bad keys. Kicking myself now for trying to cheap out. My question is if there is anything I can do to repair it. If so is it worth doing? The switches are not hot swappable if that’s...

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Does it have on-board remapping? If so, maybe reset them with the Razer software, see if that makes a difference. Maybe somebody did something silly.

If not, then I’d disassemble it, connect to a pc and see what happens when you connect the pins of the switches of the keys that don’t work. Do you get a response? Then it sounds like a bad switch. If not, then I suppose it’s the pcb.

What keys don’t work?

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

If you can solder, you can quite cheaply build your own ergo prototype, without habing to 3D print or buy PCBs: golem.hu/guide/cardboard-prototyping/

I did this, and am very happy. I got to stagger the keys as I like, place my thumb keys nicely, and know I can do it again easily and cheaply if I want something changed. Time’s not free of course, but I value the freedom this gives me.

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Corne with trackpoint from holikeebs?

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

I haven’t tried the profile. Do you think it’s for you? I think that’s important to think about. If you don’t know if you like keycaps with dished tops, maybe you could try some other, cheaper variant first.

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Depends on what they want. Inkscape is perfectly fine for plate design, which you can then lift using standoffs, like the Steel Tormentor.

humanplayer2,
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Nice! If you haven’t bumped into it, then the build log of the Steel Tormentor and it’s cardboard prototype have been really illuminating for me.

Edit: Also, an Inkscape trick: you can set it’s zoom using a real ruler placed on the screen so it can show you your drawing real size. Then you can test button placement without having to print.

humanplayer2, (edited )
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Edit: I put up my .svg files here, in case they might be useful.

Cool! I just did a full Inkscape+laser-cutting build using MDF and acrylic. I’m still to write something up about it, though. In short, I used a 1,5 mm acrylic bottom cover, on top of that 2x 3mm MDF as “case” (minimum height with a 1,5mm plate), the top one supporting the plate, but with larger holes so the switch clamps fit, a 1,5mm acrylic plate, and finally another MDF layer on top of the plate, outlining the keys, for aesthetics and rigidity.

After having set up the keys, I used mainly offsets around those to do the outline etc.

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/f3c061e2-9594-4225-8474-5801f20b358d.jpeg

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/948bcbcd-86a1-4de9-884e-299d8a0fa0e4.jpeg

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Thanks :)

Yes, I do! I enjoyed a cardboard prototype before, and only just finished this. I really like it. The fit is great, and I like the sound. I gave it some small feet in the back (some 3mm foam tape) to lift it a bit from the table/deskmat, to get some more sound out - there’s zero space between the switches and bottom plate… And I like the sound.

Switching to the prototype, I switched to Colemak, too. I’m still learning that. So I’m by no means a fast typist on it yet. But I already know better where the keys are on Colemak than I did on QWERTY, and I think the symmetric, column-staggered layout helped a lot with that.

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Yes, column stagger is amazing! Congrats on the prototype! I ended up using mine a bit over a month before getting a nicer, revised version cut. I learned from that. Removed some keys, moved some a bit.

I’ve read elsewhere that switching to a new layout is easier at the same time as changing to ergo, instead of later. I’ve had some time off, that’s why I did it now. If I had been busy, I’d rather have started using my new board and the old layout.

Can i use the black tape (electrical tape) to prevent the short of circuit board?

I have read about some guides and in the progress doing the dactyl manuform, and I have seen that many people used some tape called “kapton tape” or used some shells pulled out from the wire to seperate the columns and rows of the matrix....

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

If toy have some old silicone around, e.g. used for grouting tiles then don’t use it!

I learned the hard way that it has an expiration date and doesn’t harden after…

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Haha, so true! Cleaning it off my cardboard prototype, where I’d also used it for cable management… wasn’t fun.

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/87652464-4125-4bc9-a59f-06b43f370af7.jpeg

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/31417cb4-2100-4cad-a80d-5e5a7aef93c2.jpeg

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

What, and they just fit?!

Edit: It looks great!

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Aha, interesting! This opens up an entirely new category of things to look for in thrift stores, for me. It hadn’t occurred to me that electrical typewriters would be of relevance! Thanks for the learning!

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Thanks!

Considering turning my Ducky One 2 Mini hot swappable

I’m currently thinking on modding my Ducky with mill-max sockets. I know there is a lot of soldering involved but seems like a cool project. While looking for people that done the same thing I only found this reddit post. Is there anything better than the mill-max socket these days or should I just go for them?...

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Same amount of soldering, bit you can also use very cheap rivets. I’ve hotswap 4 different commercial boards with them, and it works great – and for a fraction of the price.

I wrote up some notes here: https://github.com/humanplayer2/mkmods/blob/main/AnnePro2/RivetHotswap.md

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

You say there is no serious alternative: did you check out keyd?

humanplayer2,
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Thank you for the news!

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

I soldered on things yesterday doing this, but not tinning the pins first. I fluxed them instead. Then I just picked up solder on the iron tip, used that.

I don’t have much experience, so maybe this is too slobby, but for now, things are in place and connected.

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Good question!

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Cyberdeck, doesn’t that normally refer to a full machine?

humanplayer2,
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

I’d say whatever else, go for hotswap with MX switches. You’ll try it, learn, and can replace your switches easily and quite cheaply.

Switches make a huge difference. Being stuck with ones you don’t really like because you didn’t get a hotswap board would really be a shame.

humanplayer2,
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You’re welcome :)

humanplayer2,
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You might also like the Steel Tormentor. There are some really nice write ups about the process, too.

humanplayer2,
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Ah, the pain of my NES friend requiring a Danish ISO layout. Else this’d be an awesome present!

humanplayer2, (edited )
@humanplayer2@lemmy.ml avatar

Ah, no Linux? Damn.

Edit: US only though, that’s means I can’t give it to the person that I know would else appreciate it.

humanplayer2,
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:)

humanplayer2,
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Oh, that’s nicely niche! Thanks!

humanplayer2,
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You can hook up a trackpoint module salvaged from a thinkpad keyboard to a Pro Micro, and use that in a handwired build. See e.g. [here] (community.keyboard.io/t/…/3663) or [here] or here (rfong.github.io/rflog/2021/…/r61-trackpoint-pt2/). You can use it with QMK, see here, see also this build.

Not ergo, but there are the Shinobi and Shura from TEX.

humanplayer2,
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You can pull it from a ThinkPad keyboard. It’s pretty simple: unscrew it from the bottom, press hard on the red nub. Different variants exist: https://deskthority.net/wiki/TrackPoint_Hardware.

humanplayer2,
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I really enjoy the split spacebars. I use those for layers: hold for a navigation layer on one, for some UI and function keys on the other. With the remapping software Keyd. If the split spacebars are not a thing for you, then I’m inclined to think the Shinobi is nicer, given the palmrest and sound profile.

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