For a low end, small, low consumption Intel box for HTPC/Kodi, Home assistant, Frigate, small Home Server or all of the above, I can recommend any N100-based box or mini itx mobo. It’s very fast compared to prior Intel low consumption CPUs (apollo lake etc), does 4K, HDR, AV1.
I’ve got a gtx 980ti absolute beauty both the 900 and 10xx series GPUs are amazing . Sadly those sandy/ivy bridge CPUs are getting older in years and don’t support the latest instruction sets. But they are still perfect for running most games today.
did you just randomly glue together paragraphs from different sources? because that last paragraph, written by some illiterate clown who never heard of punctuation, was definitely not written by the same person as the others.
I don’t think this is true. I use a similar setup for gaming and I’m able to play incredibly graphically demanding games such as cyberpunk 2077 and teardown. At quite decent framerates.
I don’t know what the CPU mentioned costs, but it looks like about 100£ listed for the rest of the parts. You can get a prebuilt Ryzen 7 5800H with 16GB RAM and a 500GB NVMe drive, incl. monitor cables and power brick, off Amazon NIB for something like $280. It’s just fine for games. Unless you’re throwing a high end GPU in there specifically for gaming, the DIY option doesn’t seem to make a lot of sense to me these days. And if you’re not gaming? The Ryzen 5 model is $230.
I’m with you; building yourself is something that - these days - you do if you’re trying to do one of two things: get started learning to put together computers; or going for some specialized (and probably high-end) rig. Trying to cobble things together out of spare parts bought online doesn’t seem to have much of a value proposition.
It really depends on where you look.And how patient you are. You can find some amazing deals and there certainly is alot of value proposition. And in some cases it might work out better to purchase an old prebuilt. Generally I recommend if your purchasing ram or a blue-ray drives to check out CEX.
Lian Li is the best case manufacturer currently because almost every other case manufacturer is copying their designs (so many fish bowl cases, cases with venting and open panels in the lower shroud area, and cases with a second chamber behind the motherboard for the power supply and drives). Fractal Design is also decent, but not as innovative as Lian Li.
I have the Lancool 3 currently, white version because white colored cases are easier to see inside with normal indoor lighting. No extra lights makes it easier to work in. The only complaint is that it’s not silent at all. Also I would prefer no glass, but not really a complaint.
Cases are so important. I’ve now gone with mATX but got full tower I have had good experiences with be quiet!. That said, they are heavy and focus on cooling and noise. For moveability I might say Thermaltake or NZXT.
I don’t have a specific case to recommend, but I’d suggest browsing case reviews at Gamers’ Nexus. They specifically test air flow and temps, which should matter to you since you’re not interested in water cooling (I’m the same way, btw).
is this your current specs? the ATX mobo will be a problem here, i mean, will you use those extra slots? matx boards are a nice nowadays and it opens a lot of possibilities, you could use a nice 4 slot case without ITX tax:)
The motherboard I already own because it was bundled with my graphics card, but it’s still sitting in the box ready to be used. So it’s not part of my current build but it’s “free” (or at least a sunk cost lol).
(My current build uses a Rampage III Extreme if you want to feel nostalgic.)
You definitely want a mid size case if you’re going to move it around. I got a full size with my first build and while it is nice and roomy, it’s never fun to move when needed.
The case you have in your list has your 2.5" SSD storage in the back and PSU under an aluminum bar at the bottom. Everything else will mostly likely be easily accessible, but if you ever need to do PSU/SSD changes, it won’t be as easy as everything else.
Otherwise, I really like Corsair cases, they’ve never done me wrong.
The next troubleshooting step implies need for a MB+CPU+RAM.
A Solution:
Buy a used rig as a cheap, not often used, but critical tool. Strip it of the case and PSU, put it in an ESD bag, in a box, on a shelf.
MB have proprietary plugs, or the old standard phased out IIRC early DDR3, or the new standard (old standard + more power pins and connectors). A modern gold PSU likely comes with the adapter to the old standard, serving MBs into DDR2. An adequate tool needs integrated graphics preferably on the CPU (not MB) for reliability; should POST past CPU and RAM; and preferably doesn’t need an adapter to the old standard.
One reactive experience like OP costs how much money and effort? Most could proactively set a budget of half and easily find a appropriate test rig. It’s cheap insurance.
I have never even heard of a switch failing like that, definitely a unique failure mode. Was it a well known case brand or a cheap no-name brand? I would have thought good switches would last 10s of thousands of cycles, but maybe you were very unlucky?
It’s a CoolerMaster case so not a small brand but the case is getting pretty old now. Definitely think I was unlucky either way. I probably won’t need to upgrade any hardware for a while now so a new case is next on the list!
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