Try fully disconnecting the power from the wall, and remove the bios battery for a while and then try booting again. Sometimes cmos reset buttons don’t fully work. Assuming it does boot make sure you go into the bios and fix the ram settings. Ryzen 5000 series isn’t as picky about ram as older ryzen systems, but you do want to make sure the ram speed and timings are correct because the default is rarely correct.
After shopping for solutions online, i cleared CMOS via the button on the mobo. I hoped it would either help the keyboard get recognised by GRUB, or at least deactivate fast-boot. But after powering the pc on again, my screen stays blank and the indication LEDs DRAM and BOOT are glowing.
I had to boot from a USB stick and regenerate UEFI entries after things like that. Though it specifically said it couldn’t boot.
What does your motherboard’s manual say about this pattern of LEDs?
Try booting a live OS and running memtest? (disconnect all bootable drives first)
Can you double-check your keyboard works with other devices?
The Clear CMOS button located on the rear I/O can be used to revert BIOS settings to default. To clear CMOS, turn off the power and remove the AC power to the power supply. Allow 30 seconds to ensure no standby power exists. Press and hold the Clear CMOS button for 3 seconds.
Did you do all of that? I have read elsewhere that reset buttons sometimes don’t work the first time (or at all), so make extra sure you’ve cleared out all the power from the motherboard and CMOS. Some people have even had to completely disconnect the battery.
If you’re sure that you’re sure you’ve cleared the CMOS, then you should move on to testing the problematic parts one by one. If that CMOS step didn’t fully discharge the power and force a reset to default, it could be that the saved settings got fucked up, and it’s now trying to use corrupted settings (instead of the default fallback ones).
If that doesn’t work, you might try to see if you can do a BIOS upgrade via flashback, which might reset your BIOS settings to default, after which you can maybe get in and do more troubleshooting.
For most laptop’s batteries can last up to 5 years, if lucky up to 8 years like on of my older laptops.
In older laptop models batteries are very easy to remove and replace, in most cases you just take out the battery from the back.
With never laptops in most cases you need to remove the whole bottom cover and then you get access to the battery that is still pretty easy to remove. You just pull one wire and unscrew a couple of screws and you can just swap the battery.
I started with this approach, but then I found truenas. It runs the entire array in software, which is nice because most consumer equipment doesn’t seem to support raid adequately.
If data reliability is high on your list, but speed is not, use a NAS running RAID 1 (mirrored drives), so one drive can fail without compromising the data.
I used to do RAID 5 on an 8 drive array, but had a failure of the NAS motherboard. And wouldn’t you know it, they didn’t make that model anymore. No easy way to get the data back out of the RAID. I finally paid to recover the data, but learned my lesson. It’s MUCH cheaper to buy duplicate drives than it is to recover data later. If the RAID motherboard failed tomorrow, I would pop the working drive in my computer and it would just work.
Using drive mirroring pretty much eliminates the concern over premature drive failure. If it’s in warranty, pop out the bad drive and send it in for repair/replacement. The NAS will still work. Buy another drive or wait with sweaty palms until the faulty drive is fixed. Rebuild the array.
I've always considered doing a raid array but the cheapness of remote servers these days makes it feel like overkill combined with being expensive and centralized. I just have an external enclosure and a mess of duplicate files across smaller outdated drives at the moment. It's not ideal, but that's ADHD for you.
For 2.5" SSD I’d suggest a Samsung Evo or crucial mx500. These will top out at like 4TB afaik.
For 3.5" spinner I’d suggest an enterprise class HDD. Specifically WD Gold or HGST. Look up the most recent backblaze drive failure report for some models known to last a while.
Yep, got a Samsung evo 870 in there, still going strong for like a decade. The HGST spinner I have is also pretty longlived. Weren't they bought out by WD though? I feel like I remember hearing that the quality has declined severely.
Having said that, I do also have a WD .... black? In there that has also lasted. I will check out gold though, and the mx500
backblaze drive failure report
Excellent, this is what I was hoping to find again but i couldn't remember the name. I also assumed it would be paywalled after all these years... if I could even get google to deliver the link.
Do you have an upgrade budget?
With a 4790k You're looking at PCIe 3.0,
a Radeon RX 6600, 6650 XT, or 7600 are all good 8GB VRAM cards for under $250 that will last for a long time at 1080p.
VRAM concerns really only occur at higher resolutions, so for you any modern card (2022 or newer) will be a massive upgrade. The 6600 can be had for $180 these days
But even you're not planning to upgrade CPU right now, i would just buy the best GPU you can fit in your budget, and do worry about bottlenecks. One day you'll upgrade CPU/MB/RAM and the GPU will fit right in.
For a case? I've had a fantastic time with my Hyte Revolt 3 It's ITX, fits 240 AIOs and water cooling easily and even custom loops if you're careful about part choice.
It comes with a sturdy carrying handle, is easy to build in, and has been rugged enough to through into a (hard shell) carry-on bag and take with me on work trips.
For CPU choice, why Intel over AMD? The AMD chips usually have lower TDPs. In your case, because you're looking for max single core instead of max multi core, you can look at second tier chips like Ryzen 7800 or Intel 14700 which usually pair 95% of the core speed with 70% of the heat and 70% of the cores. Undervolting is also an option, and AMD makes that easier.
As far as CPU wattage and heat, there's always some kind of tradeoff. It'll be audible but with the right cooler and CPU you can keep it manageable
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