It was about $850, plus some to replace some cables. The prebuilts I saw in the same price range were a lot weaker. I also got lucky with prime day, got to upgrade a few parts for the same price.
Yes it is a downgrade in speed. It would show up more in speed tests than it would visually, if you used the XMP profile. However at 3600mhz the XMP is not guaranteed unless it is in the supported memory sheet for your board.
Your current PSU is important for figuring out if you need to upgrade. Maybe consider a Ryzen 5800X3D (if your motherboard supports it with a BIOS update) and a 6800 XT because I don’t think the 2600 is gonna be pushing 100+ frames at 1440p in most newer titles (of course it depends on the title and settings). I don’t think the 7800 XT makes much sense over the 6800 XT at that price.
Any lights is too many lights, they are pointless and obnoxious IMO. I fucking hate how my current laptop has one of those stupid fucking rgb backlit keyboards which lights up to full brightness when the computer goes into standby but isn’t closed.
The sooner manufacturers stop making this trash the better.
Its called kapton tape. Its specialized, non-conductive, high temperature threshold tape that’s used to prevent shorts in electronics. You usually see it in laptops to hold things like wires in place if the manufacturer didn’t design guides into the case.
You should be able to buy it from Amazon or any e-tailer. Your local hardware store probabaly also sells it.
I don’t know why you would need it on a ram module though, unless the module itself has the possibility of coming into contact with a conductive surface or an SMD or other component on the board or surrounding enclosure.
Also, you’d be better off replacing both ram modules with a matching set from a kit. Even if you find the exact same module online, since they aren’t from the same batch, you can’t guarantee they’ll perform well together.
About the RAM themself, getting two would be a waste. The current stick works perfectly, so I thought getting the same model online (that I found easily) would not make a fully working stick of RAM just unused.
I am not really talking about mismatched. I am talking about getting the exact model VS getting two fresh sticks and retire the original one. It doesn’t sound like both situation would create problems, again, sounds. In any case, in both cases it would be 2400MHz sticks because it appears to be the only supported frequency.
Buying one stick to match the one you already have is technically mismatching. Unless you get extremely lucky and end up with another stick from the same batch as the first, there will probably be some slight differences.
A lot of what you see online says that this is bad, and you should buy both sticks as a set, but realistically, you won’t see a difference.
I’ve been doing it for decades, and never seen an issue, and that’s in gaming and photo and video work :)
Oh boy. This is kind of a land mine when it comes to getting recommendations.
The first thing that you have to address is EXACTLY what your goal is. If you are primarily building a gaming first workstation second computer that will have significant differences from if you are building a home NAS server where you one garunteed data accuracy/security.
In my personal experience the majority of crashes, stutters, and freezes I have experienced since I started building computers in the 90’s have been software related and nothing to do with hardware. I’ve still got a Pentium 4 running Windows XP SP2 that is bullet proof and never gives me any problems. It also doubles
as a great space heater. I would do your best to create a good system. UT understand that there may still be all the things you have experiences because it’s software not hardware.
As a general rule of thumb last generation hardware is going to be where you want to look. It is new enough that the performance will be good enough for the vast majority of things you want to accomplish and because of its age (in theory) has had enough time for bugs to have been ironed out and firmware/software fixes created.
Regarding CSM motherboards. They are not more stable than any other type of motherboard. It is a program designed to ensure companies can have a long lifespan on the same hardware because the manufacture gives a garuntee that they will continue manufacturing the part. The manufacturer also makes the promise that they will give a 6 month end of life warning for any SKU that they will be discontinuing so that enterprises have the opportunity to plan for upgrades to their systems if required.
ECC is great if your data is super important to you and you can’t have any loss whatsoever, even a single bit or two. I personally have never run ECC on my home rigs and the only issue I have ever had that I traced to my RAM was my computer crashing when doing large video renders. Turned out one of my sticks was functionally dead. Put any kind of load on it and it would just shut down and be unresponsive. No amount of ECC would fix that kind of issue.
There is evidence that ECC RAM can lead to overall high latency and power frame times during gaming but unless you are playing at 240hz at e-sports competition levels you probably won’t notice. Depending on what motherboard you choose make sure to check if it supports registered or unregistered Ram of you go the route of ECC. This will impact both your options available to you and the cost of the Ram.
If you can find ECC that’s compatible with your motherboard of choice and isn’t that much more expensive then go for it. Can’t really hurt anything.
Powersupply: The highest rated Seasonic power supply you can afford and a UPC. Check for the 80+ rating, in order from best to least (least here means still REALLY good but not as amazing) : Titanium - Platinum - Gold - Bronze. Try to get one larger than you system needs NOT because it means it’s more stable or efficient but rather so that if you upgrade down the line you don’t have to touch the power supply.
Dual redundant is only necessary if you are looking for as close to 100% uptime as possible and you literally cannot shut down your computer because you will lose money or data. Dual PSU will allow you to swap out a dead one for a fresh one with no downtime. That’s why they exist, no other reason.
Raid M.2 is a perfectly good idea but a good rule of thumb is to have your operating system on the boot drive and ABSOLUTELY nothing else. Have SSD’s for your programs and games. When running multiple SSD’s and M.2s and GPU’s (depending on your situation) you might need to keep an eye out on how many PCI lanes you are filling up.
I air cool probably the way to go for you. I’m a Noctua shill and I’m proud of it. I love their black editions of their fans and the NH-D15 is kind of the king of covering all your bases for colling needs. The silence is a major selling point as well.
AM5 was released with the 7000 series CPUs. 8000s are absolutely going to be supported, and there’s a very high chance 9000 will be supported as well. I believe AM4 was supported for 4 generations of CPU.
Chances are you won’t conclusively know which CPU is supported until they are released, but to keep the odds ever in your favor you should pick a higher generation chipset. Unfortunately, it looks like only the 6xx generation are released at the moment so there’s not much choice.
Yeah, I’m not sure what would make a case obsolete other than not physically fitting your hardware. I’m using a janky mid-2000s Antec case to hold my i7-9700k / RTX 2070 build with no problems (although I fully expect to need a bigger case for any future GPU upgrades).
My hot take is that this is practically irrelevant for the vast majority of desktop users, even hobbyists. Unless you have an absolute rats’ nest of cables inside the case or you are overclocking the chip close to its thermal limits, your chip should run just fine with a small form factor heatsink/fan, which an older, non-enthusiast case should have no problem fitting. As one data point, I’m cooling my CPU with a Noctua NH-D15 inside my Antec Three Hundred. A somewhat tight fit? Maybe, but certainly no performance issues.
Far from being a tech wizz, I once decided I was going to push to the absolute limits an old 775 board I had around and the only concern I had was with CPU cooling, as I intended to fit the machine with a Core2 Quad.
Because the machine was built inside an SFF, putting in a larger cooler was not feaseable, unless I was to cut a hole into the side panel to accomodate it. However, spending a few more monies on the CPU for a 65W model did the trick and I managed to keep the stock cooler I was already using.
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